2010年10月27日星期三

Assignment 3

we have a group meeting  in production design studio yesterday to take a talk about each person's dissertation. Everyone try to think about how to start this hard work. we all choose some topics and find some interesting things that we want to explore.  It was pretty uesful when after listen to other people's thinking. Cause we can get some good ideas that we never think about it.

Then i still want try to do culcure and design. It will have links with my major textile design. It will be interesting related with my project. i can make fabric samples and compare them see what happening. It will be fun. Then i did this mind map. I hope it will help me on my dissertation.

  

2010年10月5日星期二

Wiki

Culture and design



Sun yi nan
Textile design 3 rd year




My topic is culture and design. I am a Chinese student. My specialty is textile design. I understand the State of culture . I also learned in the UK for a year's time. So I want to explore the textile, clothing cultural design between China and UK. I want to think about Chinese culture design and British cultural differences and common points of the design. Even the East and West culture design.
So I refer to a lot of books, the Internet looking for information. Hope I can get more information and inspiration and help me get better overview.
Culture is the survival by people, each kind of cultural elements are produced to meet the needs of humanity. So that the culture is the life, its centre is the man. Design and culture have inextricably linked. Eugenia(2009) and Hazel(2009) have both shown that “Design by thinking to create and embody the requirements of the human spirit, its purpose is to improve people's material life style, creating a new culture.” Since our creation in real life is a continuation of the cultural activities, and then create should need to look for from a traditional culture. National culture is influenced by the national natural conditions and social conditions. it has own unique language, ways of thinking, values and aesthetics.


Culture is manifested through a specific form , but this time the cultural forms, on the one hand is based on the cultural significance of nationality, on the other hand, is the embodiment of the modern features.
China is a ancient country with a lot of civilization. China's long history of costume design from the primitive society, Shang, autumn, Northern and Southern dynasties, Tang, Xia, Jin and Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties, to modern all have distinctive features.
Chinese and Western fashion culture connotation has a big difference. Chinese fashion design is a single-source of culture, in its formation process, has closely linked with China’s rites. It has strong social and political ethics tendencies. In their development process, they have conservative thinking. Chinese clothing culture is stress on the line and pattern meaning. It gives a implicit feeling
Such as, Autumn clothing (221 BC ~770 ) clothes very long to knee, there are several-meter-long sleeves, waist have sash and people dress boots. Both women and men all wearing the jade in waist.
Dress of the Tang dynasty (581-907) because of economic and cultural prosperity . so clothing develop fast, are unfolded unprecedented splendid spectacle. The silk with various colors . And have Special patterns like the pheasant, bucket sheep, squamous . There are five colours of embroidery. Tang dynasties, the most fashionable woman is dressed ru skirt . It is blouse with long skirts, dress waist high in the sash .
Modern costume (1912) women's favorite is qipao. Robes of high neck, the elegant and dignified feeling, slightly tight waist and hip loins reflects the curve; in particular, open on both sides of the gap, when woman walking the skirt horn will flying, has a lighter feeling .
Daily wear can be selected to spend in cotton fine cloth made, both simple and generous. Selection of flowers, pigment cell, strips made , can demonstrate the gentle, steady style. Selection of woven cotton satin, velvet, is use for greeting. It is the most luxurious costumes in party. In recent years, batik, Freehand, and other process used to make the cheongsam gown " joined the ranks of the upscale fashion. Cheongsam in sleeve type has a sleeveless, short sleeve, mid sleeve and long sleeve; there are traditional collar and changes without collar; improved traditional dress is also favored by the ladies.


Japanese fashion designer Issey Miyaka is the earliest Asian designer that introduce Oriental color design concepts into Western. He created the "wrinkle series" became the flag of the Oriental culture. Issey Miyake works, not directly to placed East of the element symbol in the fashion, but rather deep understanding of the Oriental culture, humble, natural heritage, and place it into the garment. All of these, from his own traditional cultural connotation understanding, that is what he said, wanted to "discover the spirit of the potential behind the kimono."


However, Western fashion design focusing on the form, that form is content. The clothing is a special body art. In their development process, style changes but obvious. Variation and innovative more than inheritance and continuity.


Western fashion culture have so many derived. It originated in ancient Greek culture, Roman culture, influenced by that painting, sculpture and other artistic. In the history of Western clothing, early 13th century, has established the stereoscopic 3-d cutting method. And the invention of the three-dimensional cutting and the use of a watershed between Eastern and Western clothing, from this, Western clothing become stereoscopic, contour becomes flexible.
Western apparel design uses three-dimensional cutting methods-draping method depending on the human body for at least a tetrahedron polyhedron. attentive towards the human body from top to bottom and front to rear of various aspects of the relationship, use undulating Plait, get clothing that culminated with a three-dimensional body with a three-dimensional effect.
Western apparel design of transliteration collar and pleats collar rotavirus (like a fan-like around the neck) applying so wider.
Western fashion design decoration is a three-dimensional form .its wonderful place: the first is the three-dimensional structure , natural balanced; the second is a decorative effect with the aesthetic mentality, because rich layers, collocation, overlapping surface space are interspersed with interesting effects, easy to stir the ornamental beauty.


And China as the representatives of the Oriental culture have the beauty of vaguely. They through the design, layout, colors, lines give the overall harmony and beauty, a great deal with embroidery, Ribbon, patterns and other decorations. Express their rich meaning and imagination.


Eastern and Western dress design completely are two different cultures to reflect and, therefore, the style of costume culture formation and national customs, history and culture of origin are closely linked. Visible clothing is a kind of culture.









                       
You may know, the Chinese hostess costumes are very traditional. Some are using China Red elements. Some are using buckles. Some use Chinese traditional pattern. However British hostess costume stereoscopic effect is very strong. This is a very typical due to the differences between Eastern and Western cultural history led to the design.




Another example, I buy clothes in the UK, the same model, in the United Kingdom is feel more large, I wear ill-fitting. Because of the geographical differences, East and West is different. Westerners are tall. So clothing model design is relatively large. It is so interesting.




Western culture and Eastern culture have the big difference .It mainly manifested in its space awareness. Western space on behalf of the entity, the East is an artistic space. look at the left side, this is an ancient Chinese form of terra cotta pots, it does not fit in the crop, just imagine when it walking, clothes and clothes inside the space, it is flowing out of that big wide robe sleeves, free.
The right side of this picture is the French designer Dior in 1947, he released a new style, has been around and leads the fashion of Paris, this characteristic is the West's narrow clothing system. Clothing with the perfect combination of the human body, there is no space. It does not have a free charm. The West must focus on the entities, and Oriental emphasis on non-void. Now take a look at the exact and fuzzy.


This dress is attached, no sleeve of the crop. When person who wears it, There has many folds at the axillas. Only emphasizes the space between clothes and the body. this is also a unique Oriental crop out of a phenomenon. Left this one is a designer called Armani. Such a power has done to the extreme. Clothes after the person with the human body is exactly, and harmony, but these clothes can only be hang to there, it should not be folded, if you put in the trunk, then when you get out to wear , there are a lot of wrinkles, it will not be able to wear very spiritual, very nice.


Today more Westerners are astonished at the magnificent ancient Oriental culture, loving those exudes a unique charm of Chinese traditional arts (calligraphy, painting, theatre, paper, embroidery, etc.). In these arts, with completely different from the Western Oriental life philosophy and aesthetics, reflected in fashion, art, clothing, particularly focusing on the spirit and temperament. For example, solemn, generous, implied a clothing style that reflects the golden mean of Confucianism; nature, comfortable, confident to reflect seeks Taoist philosophy, etc.


 There are a lot of Chinese elements. For example, the thought of Chinese elements is the Red Lantern, the Opera, Dragon, qipao, Chinese Kung Fu, Chinese Red. The style is usually, big with flaps, buckles and collar. Patterns are mostly traditional disk flowers. Colors are red and yellow. The overall performance is indirectness, clean and elegant style.


In the long history of clothing throughout, we occasionally see the fusion of Eastern and Western fashion style, and this integration will often gave a dazzling light, and even affects society . Opening of the "Silk Road" from the distant Oriental China's exquisite silk appeared in ancient Rome, it was so fascinated by ancient Roman nobility, the ladies who are willing to spend on expensive price to achieve their aim of fashion.
But just last year, in 2004/2005 winter Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche advanced clothing models along with the Chinese movie music coming. They wear Assorted bright imitated traditional-style like Qipao ,wearing plate with butterfly buttons trousers. Dragon Totem, China flowers, Brocade, embroidery, fabrics and weaving techniques, show extreme luxury, brilliant and beautiful Chinese style. Today is world renowned American designer Tom Ford use luxury China wind to give YSL drew a heavyweight period.


With the acceleration of the process of globalization, fashion trends without borders are obvious. Guy(2000) states that “Design has become a global phenomenon.” China fashion designers use Western designers design practices. Italian fashion guru George Armani has always had a passion for Asia. 2005 spring/summer fashion series use of Chinese calligraphy, cloaks, straw and other elements. Last summer, he designed costumes used Chinese elements with popular elements of the last century in France, plate buckle, Chinese knot, tassels and other details on the right.
Culture and design are inseparable. We want to make more use of elements to create more design work.


Bibliography:


Eugenia, P(2009) and Hazel ,C(2009) the fabric of culture


Winter, A(2008) the fabric of culture


Breward, C and Evans,C(2005) fashion and modernity


Agins, Teri(1999) the end of fashion


Guy, J((2000) the culture of design


Gao, Hanyu(1992) Chinese textile design


Armani’s cloth pictures at: http://www.giorgioarmani.com/index.html


terra cotta pots pictures at :


http://www.zh5000.com/js/daqi/dayong/dy-online-0003.htm


2010年10月3日星期日

mind map

I did the mind map about Wiki. I just hope it can help me to write the Wiki.
My topic is culture and design. 
 I want to explore the textile, clothing cultural design between China and UK. I want to think about Chinese culture design and British cultural differences and common points of the design.




wiki meeting




Last week we have a new project called Wiki. My eight members and me in a small bar to talk each task together. We discussed a lot, give each student different recommendations. Finally we establish everyone’s subject. Next step we need to do a lot of things, like view the books, gather information, to expand our knowledge, and then to write a thesis. It is not a hard task. Hope everyone enjoy it.